Written by Melissa Corbin
What Charleston has in common with Napa, the same could be said for Savannah with Sonoma when it comes to the lifestyle and culture of its people. On a recent trip to Savannah, Georgia, the fine folks at Perry Lane Hotel rolled out their red carpet. Executive Chef Andrew Wilson stood in the late afternoon’s golden light flooding the property’s cornerstone restaurant, The Emporium Kitchen and Wine Market, with a glass of Prosecco in one hand and an oyster knife in the other. His mission? To help me perfect my shucking skills and then some. Plates and plates of regional foods passed my lips that night, and I have a few things to say. But, before I pontificate upon the regionality of grits and bivalves, I’ll start with this chef seasoned better than his pork chops.
Born and raised in the Northeastern part of the United States, Wilson could charm the Grand Empress herself, The Lady Chablis. “I have a great deal of Southern in my blood,” he winks. Starting his career as Sous Chef at Charleston’s famed, McCrady’s Tavern at the turn of the millennium, he then headed to Savannah for several other impressive restaurant gigs. It was his most recent stint in Sonoma where he “got a deep submersion” into the world of wines. And even though the hotel’s Sage Restaurant Group is lucky to have Bandon Wise as Vice President of their beverage programs, I can’t help to think Wilson’s submersion influenced his style for the better when he returned to Savannah to take the helm of Perry Lane Hotel’s collection of restaurants. Travel broadens our thoughts exponentially and it shows in his delivery.
Because he’s been at Perry Lane Hotel even before there was an actual lane running between the two 5-story structures, Wilson got busy building relationships with area producers. “When you’re in construction phase with a lot of office and paperwork, the real fun is going out and visiting the farms and developing those relationships. That was one of THE highlights. And, of course, ninety minutes makes a big difference in who your suppliers are from Charleston to Savannah. So, I had to make new friends with new producers,” he says. There are actually three restaurants at Perry Lane Hotel. And, its Wilson’s attention to relationships that makes the menus read like a Who’s Who of Savannah farmers–– and fisherman, for that matter. “I love Cane Water Farm, Better Fresh Farms and Ancil Jacques of Swampy Apple Seed Mushrooms. Boy, he’s a fun guy who knows about fungi. I use Billy’s Botanicals. But, Billy also gets us shrimp because his brother is a shrimper,” Wilson goes on and on about all the folks he’s come to know in the region.
Because Savannah’s seasons blur a bit, fresh ingredients abound throughout most of the year. Wilson explains his process, “We have hot and not so hot here in the deep south. Our menu is based on a classic bistro format. Nightly suppers (Plats du jour) are an example. But, because we are where it’s a melting pot, that’s where we bring in influences. That’s what America is. The bistro is just the framework––approachable, honest, simple and straightforward. The Brussels Sprouts, for example, are called Jhunes Brussels Sprouts because our executive sous chef is Filipino American. That recipe is his grandfather’s who’s name is Jhune and reflects his roots.” Paired with a bourbon brined pork chop and grits from Cane Water Farm, the marrying of flavors and cultures is plain out perfection. Wilson brines his chops in Jim Beam for 48 hours, before sous vide takes the wheel. While he says he’s done this pork chop for over 20 years, immersion cooking is a new addition to his tried and true recipe. “We do it for purely practical purposes. It takes a long time to cook because they are so big. Then we give six minutes of fire and smoke on the grill which cuts down on the time,” he says.
This summer look for more veggies to hit your plate at Emporium Kitchen and Wine Bar. Come Meatless Mondays, Ancil’s Mushrooms are the star of plats du jour. Also on the lineup will be a classic ratatouille and a whole fish dressed in romanesco. But, save room for dessert. Pastry Chef Tina Haldeman ”is a rockstar” according to Wilson, and I couldn’t agree more. He met her upon referral directly from last year’s Winter Olympics in Seoul where she delighted the U.S. VIPs with her confectionary concoctions and has already been invited back for the next Olympic season. “She does it all from plated desserts, bread, cookies and from the most simple to the most complex,” says Wilson. Each Friday morning, I highly recommend one of those sticky buns Haldeman makes from croissant dough. But, you better get up with the chickens because these beauties sell out fast. As for the beverages, nothing beats a chilled Chardonnay from their private label, but there’s a bevy of wine, beer and cocktails ready to help you slow your roll and savor your time at the Perry Lane Hotel.
Now, about those oysters.
You can easily google instructional videos, but make sure to use a shucking glove or a kitchen towel unless you are somewhat of a shucking ninja or something. Trust me. You’ll holler more than “Two tears in a bucket. Mother shuck it!” when you have to run to the emergency room just because you didn’t heed my warning. Stupid is as stupid does, as it turns out. Once you’ve dawned appropriate attire, you can get to the meat of the matter. As I hold my fancy new shucking knife from Toadfish Outfitters,the twelve year old in me giggles just a wee bit when Wilson instructs me to, “Hold on to the front and go in from the back. Ease it in at first and then go in for a good pop.” Did someone say aphrodisiac?
Chef Andrew Wilson and the entire restaurant team is part of the luxe experience in which you’ll indulge at the Perry Lane Hotel. Truly, I felt as if I’d found the best damn piece of chocolate in the entire box. But, when venturing out for other Savannah treats, you just might see Wilson at some of his favorite hangs like Artillery for cocktails, or dinner at The Atlantic or Cotton and Rye. Still, at the end of the day, he says his midnight guilty pleasure is popping a frozen Totino’s Frozen Pizza in the oven. Hey, it’s about balance, Y’all.
Come this fall, be on the lookout for Wilson to take on Bobby Flay for a live fire round on the Food Network’s popular show, Beat Bobby Flay. He’s bound by secrecy as to the show’s outcome. But, whether he beats the celebrity competitor or not, Wilson will undoubtedly have you over the moon––Moon River, that is.
Writer’s note: Please forgive me for my Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil AND my Forrest Gump references. I just can’t help myself. Oh, and the Moon River reference? Miss Holly Golightly dreamt of her time on the Savannah River in that famous opening scene in the movie classic, Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
